White 4x4 in the stony desert, with a Berber guide

Khamlia, the village of Gnawa music

A few kilometres from Merzouga, south of the dunes, lies Khamlia: a small village whose people descend from the sub-Saharan African peoples who arrived with the caravans. Its Gnawa music is what makes it unique.

Khamlia Gnawa music

Gnawa is a spiritual music of sub-Saharan origin, rooted in Morocco’s Sufi brotherhoods. It’s played on the guembri, a three-stringed lute with a skin-covered body, and the qraqeb, iron castanets that keep the rhythm. In 2019 UNESCO inscribed it on the list of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity.

In Khamlia, the musicians welcome visitors into their home with tea and play for them. It’s a short visit, but one of the most memorable moments of the trip.

Travellers playing the drums in a gnawa music house

How to visit Khamlia

Khamlia is part of our 4x4 excursion around Merzouga, along with the nomad families and the Mfis mines. It’s also included in the tours that have a full day in the desert.

The Merzouga nomads

Around the dunes, nomad families still move with their herds and live in wool tents. On the 4x4 excursion we stop with one of them for tea and a glimpse of their daily life. It’s a respectful visit, not a show.

Tents of a nomad family in the Merzouga desert

Frequently asked questions

Where is Khamlia?

South of Merzouga, beside the Erg Chebbi dunes, on the road towards Taouz.

Do you have to pay to hear the music?

It’s customary to leave a contribution for the musicians. We’ll explain how it works during the visit.

Tassili Luxury Desert Camp at dusk, with the tents lit up
The tents of Tassili Luxury Desert Camp among the dunes

Where to sleep in the desert

A night in a private tent

If you want to stay longer in the desert, Tassili Luxury Desert Camp has ten tents with private bathrooms in Erg Znaigui, away from the main camp area.

  • Ten private tents
  • A private bathroom in every tent
  • In Erg Znaigui, away from the main camp area
See the tents
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