3 days from Marrakech to Merzouga
Tizi n’Tichka pass · Ait Ben Haddou · Valley of Roses · Dades Valley · Todra Gorge
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Where is the desert in Morocco? It lies in the south and east of the country, on the far side of the Atlas Mountains. The great Sahara dunes are concentrated in two places: Erg Chebbi, next to Merzouga, and Erg Chigaga, beyond M’hamid.
Morocco has two faces, divided by the Atlas. North and west of the mountains lie the imperial cities, the Atlantic coast and the farmland. To the south and east the climate turns arid and the Sahara begins: palm-filled valleys, mud-brick kasbahs and, at the end, the desert.
But the deserts in Morocco aren’t all dunes. Most of it is hamada, a plain of dark stone, and reg, a plain of gravel. The ergs — the seas of sand dunes everyone pictures when they think of the Sahara — cover only a small part of the south. So when people ask where the desert is in Morocco, what they usually mean is: where are the dunes?
It lies next to Merzouga and Hassi Labied, near the Algerian border. It measures about 22 to 28 kilometres from north to south and 5 to 7 across, and its highest dunes reach around 150 metres. It’s the great erg you can reach on a paved road right to the edge of the sand, which is why it has more services around it: places to stay, camps and activities that start at the foot of the dunes.
It lies at the end of the Draa Valley, past Zagora. The tarmac ends at M’hamid, and from there it’s about 60 kilometres of piste that can only be done by 4x4. It’s a large and far more isolated dune field, with fewer people and fewer services. Its dunes are a little lower than those of Erg Chebbi.
Zagora is the main town of the Draa Valley, an old caravan stop famous for its “Tombouctou 52 jours” sign. It’s closer to Marrakech than Merzouga is, but the dunes around it are small. It makes a good stop on the way, especially en route to Erg Chigaga.
Agafay is about 35–40 kilometres from Marrakech and is a stone desert: bare hills and earthy plains, with no sand dunes. It works for an afternoon or a night without going far from the city, but it isn’t the Sahara of the dunes.
Around Erg Chebbi there are other desert landscapes: the black hamada, full of fossils, home to the old Mfis mines, and Erg Znaigui, a smaller, quieter dune field about 15–20 kilometres south of Merzouga. That’s where you’ll find Tassili Luxury Desert Camp, run by our own company.
More than the name of the desert, what usually shapes the trip is the city you set off from and how many days you have. These are the real road distances, with the stops along the way:
Merzouga is about 560 kilometres away, 10 to 12 hours with stops, crossing the High Atlas. The minimum is 3 days, to see Aït Ben Haddou and the Dades and Todra gorges without rushing. Zagora is closer and Agafay is less than an hour away, but neither has the dunes of Erg Chebbi.
Merzouga is the natural desert: about 470 kilometres, 8 to 10 hours with stops, through the Middle Atlas, Ifrane and the Ziz Valley. In 3 days you arrive for sunset, spend a full day in the desert and head back. And you don’t have to return to Fes: you can carry on to Marrakech via the gorges and the kasbahs.
It’s the nearest large town to Merzouga, about two hours away, and it has an airport. If you’re flying, it’s the quickest way to reach Erg Chebbi.
Ouarzazate sits halfway to almost everything in the south. From here you reach Merzouga along the Road of the Kasbahs, and you can come back via Zagora and the Draa Valley.
The desert is a long way off, so the usual choice is a multi-day circuit through the imperial cities or the south before reaching the dunes.
Erg Chebbi is our home: our excursions set off from Hassi Labied, at its foot. Right from the edge of the dunes you can ride a camel up at sunset, explore the surroundings by 4x4, or race across the sand by quad or buggy with a local guide. And the camel is optional: the whole desert, including the transfer to camp, can be done by 4x4.
At Tassili Luxury Desert Camp they’ve compared the deserts head to head, with distances, types of dunes and who each one is for:
In the south and east of the country, on the far side of the Atlas. The great dunes are at Erg Chebbi, next to Merzouga, and Erg Chigaga, beyond M’hamid.
Erg Chebbi, at Merzouga, with dunes of around 150 metres. Those of Erg Chigaga are a little lower, and those around Zagora much smaller.
No. Agafay is a stone desert, about 35–40 kilometres from Marrakech. To see sand dunes you need to go to Erg Chebbi or Erg Chigaga.
No. The tarmac ends at M’hamid, and the last 60 kilometres or so are 4x4 piste. Erg Chebbi, on the other hand, can be reached by road right to the edge of the dunes.
Yes. Our 6-day tour from Fes to Marrakech spends a night in the Merzouga dunes and then heads south to M’hamid and Erg Chigaga.
Agafay, less than an hour away, but it’s a stone desert. For sand dunes, Zagora is closer than Merzouga, but its dunes are small; the big ones, at Erg Chigaga and Erg Chebbi, are a day’s drive away.
Tizi n’Tichka pass · Ait Ben Haddou · Valley of Roses · Dades Valley · Todra Gorge
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Cedar forests of the Middle Atlas · Ziz Valley · Erg Chebbi dunes · Rissani souk · Todra Gorge
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