3 days from Marrakech to Merzouga
Tizi n’Tichka pass · Ait Ben Haddou · Valley of Roses · Dades Valley · Todra Gorge
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Erg Chebbi is the sea of orange sand dunes that rises right next to Merzouga, in south-eastern Morocco. It’s a Saharan erg, and it’s on our doorstep: our excursions set off from Hassi Labied, at its foot.
In the Sahara, an erg is a sea of dunes: a stretch of desert where the ground is sand piled into crests and ridges, rather than stone. Erg Chebbi is one of the Saharan ergs in Morocco.
The dunes rise beside Merzouga and Hassi Labied, which sit on their western edge, near the Algerian border, and they stretch for several kilometres from north to south. The sand is orange, and it changes colour as the day goes on, turning red as the sun goes down.
People often say Merzouga to mean both, but they’re two different things: Merzouga is the village, and Erg Chebbi is the dunes right beside it. Around them lie the black desert, a stony plain full of fossils, the Gnawa village of Khamlia and, after the rains, the lake of Dayet Srij.
There’s a paved road all the way to Merzouga, so you can reach the edge of the dunes by car. The real challenge is distance. From Marrakech it’s about 560 kilometres across the High Atlas: 10 to 12 hours with stops. From Fes it’s about 470 kilometres, 8 to 10 hours, crossing the Middle Atlas via Ifrane and Midelt and then heading down to Errachidia.
The quickest option is to fly into Errachidia: from the airport, the Erg Chebbi dunes are about two hours away. That’s why most travellers come on a private multi-day tour, which breaks up the drive and stops at the kasbahs, gorges and palm groves along the way.
The classic is a camel ride at sunset, up to the top of a dune to watch the light fade over the sand. But the camel is optional: by 4x4 you can explore the whole erg and its surroundings, from the nomad families to Khamlia and the old Mfis mines, without riding anything at all. For adrenaline, there’s quad biking or a two-seater buggy with a local guide, and on the slopes, sandboarding.
Set your alarm for sunrise at least once: first light over the dunes is worth the early start. And at night, look up. With no lights for miles, the sky over Erg Chebbi is perfect for stargazing.
Erg Chigaga is Morocco’s other great sea of dunes, and travellers often weigh one against the other. Chigaga lies near M’hamid, beyond Zagora, and it’s far more remote: there’s no tarmac, and the only way in is by 4x4, along some 60 kilometres of desert piste from M’hamid.
Erg Chebbi is much easier to reach, with a paved road all the way to Merzouga, and it has more services around it, with activities that start right at the foot of the dunes. If you want the desert with comfort and plenty to do, Erg Chebbi is the natural choice. If you’re after isolation and don’t mind the track, Chigaga is worth the effort.
You don’t necessarily have to choose. Our 6-day tour from Fes to Marrakech takes in both: it starts with Erg Chebbi in Merzouga and later heads south to M’hamid and the dunes of Erg Chigaga.
Yes. Erg Chebbi is one of the Sahara’s ergs — seas of dunes — in Morocco.
It depends on what you’re after. Erg Chebbi has a paved road to Merzouga and more services. Erg Chigaga, near M’hamid beyond Zagora, is more remote and can only be reached by 4x4, along about 60 kilometres of piste.
Yes. The camel is optional: you can explore the dunes by 4x4, quad or buggy, and the transfer to the camp can be by 4x4 too.
By road, about 560 kilometres across the High Atlas: 10 to 12 hours with stops. That’s why we recommend a tour of at least 3 days.
Tizi n’Tichka pass · Ait Ben Haddou · Valley of Roses · Dades Valley · Todra Gorge
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Cedar forests of the Middle Atlas · Ziz Valley · Erg Chebbi dunes · Gnawa music of Khamlia
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Where to sleep in the desert
If you want to stay longer in the desert, Tassili Luxury Desert Camp has ten tents with private bathrooms in Erg Znaigui, away from the main camp area.