The ksar of Aït Ben Haddou on its hillside, with palm trees and the riverbed in the foreground

What to see between Marrakech and Merzouga

Marrakech and Merzouga are about 560 kilometres apart, linked by one of the most beautiful road trips in Morocco: the High Atlas, Aït Ben Haddou, Ouarzazate, the Skoura palm grove, the Valley of Roses and the Dades and Todra gorges. Here is what to see between them, stop by stop, and how much time each one deserves.

The route at a glance

The road leaves Marrakech heading south-east, climbs into the High Atlas over the Tizi n’Tichka pass and drops down to Ouarzazate. From there it runs east along the Road of a Thousand Kasbahs — Skoura, Kelaat M’Gouna, Boumalne Dades, Tinghir — and, past Erfoud, reaches Merzouga and the Erg Chebbi dunes.

It’s about 560 kilometres. Without stopping it would be 8 or 9 hours at the wheel, but with the stops that are worth making, 10 to 12. That’s why we recommend splitting the Marrakech to Merzouga route over two days and spending the night halfway, in the Dades Valley.

The stops, in order

1. The High Atlas and the Tizi n’Tichka pass

Soon after leaving Marrakech the mountains begin: the road climbs past Berber villages and terraced fields to the Tizi n’Tichka pass, at about 2,200 metres (the sign at the top says 2,260). There are viewpoints to stop at on the way up, and from the top you can see the landscape change to the south, drier and redder. In winter there can be snow: the driver keeps an eye on the road conditions.

2. Telouet, a detour worth making

Shortly after the pass, the road to Telouet branches off: the old stronghold of the Glaoui family. Its kasbah, partly in ruins, still has halls with carved stucco, cedar ceilings and zellige. From Telouet you can head down the Ounila Valley to Aït Ben Haddou: slower, but much quieter than the main road.

3. Aït Ben Haddou

The most famous mud-brick ksar in Morocco, a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1987. You cross the Ounila river and walk up between earthen houses and towers to the old granary at the top, which looks out over the whole valley. Lawrence of Arabia, Gladiator and Game of Thrones were filmed here. Allow an hour to an hour and a half.

4. Ouarzazate

They call it the gateway to the desert. It has the Taourirt kasbah right in the centre and, on the outskirts, the Atlas Film Studios, opened in 1983, where many of the films that use southern Morocco as a backdrop are shot. It’s a good place to stop for lunch.

5. The Skoura palm grove

A large, very green palm grove dotted with kasbahs among olive trees and irrigation channels. The best known is the Kasbah Amridil, which you can visit inside to see how a large family lived in a fortified house.

6. The Valley of Roses

Around Kelaat M’Gouna, the fields are lined with hedges of Damask roses. Their petals are used to make the rose water sold all over Morocco, and every May, at harvest time, the town holds its rose festival. At the cooperatives you can see how it’s distilled.

7. The Dades Gorges

From Boumalne Dades, a road winds up the valley past kasbahs and orchards to the gorges. Along the way you’ll see the rock formations known as the Monkey Fingers and, further up, the hairpin road of Tissadrine, with its viewpoint. It’s the best place to spend the night halfway.

8. Tinghir and the Todra Gorge

Tinghir has a palm grove that stretches for kilometres along the Todra river. At the end of the valley, the river squeezes between rock walls up to 300 or 400 metres high, only about ten metres apart at the narrowest point. You leave the car and walk along the floor of the gorge, beside the water.

9. Erfoud, Rissani and Merzouga

The last stretch crosses the plain towards the Tafilalet. Erfoud is the town of fossils and Rissani the town of the great souk. Finally, the orange line of Erg Chebbi appears on the horizon: you’ve arrived in Merzouga.

Towering rock walls on both sides of the path through the Todra Gorge

Dades or Todra, if there’s only time for one?

They’re different. The Dades is a long valley with rock formations and a spectacular winding road, best enjoyed from the car and the viewpoints. The Todra is a narrow canyon you explore on foot, between towering walls. If you can only stop at one, make it the Todra, because it’s on the same road to Merzouga. If you sleep in the Dades, you’ll see both.

The hairpin road winding down through the Dades Gorges

How many days?

In one day
It can be done, but it’s 10 or 12 hours in the car and the stops end up short. That’s why we don’t run 2-day tours.
In two days
This is the way we recommend: Tichka, Aït Ben Haddou and Ouarzazate on the first day, a night in the Dades, then Todra, Tinghir and Merzouga on the second, reaching the dunes in daylight.
With more time
With 4 or 5 days you add a full day in the desert, or return to Marrakech by a different road: through the Draa Valley, Agdz and N’kob, or via Telouet. That way the way back doesn’t repeat the way out.

With a driver or on your own

You can do it in a hire car: the road is paved the whole way. What you gain with a local driver is being able to look at the scenery instead of the road, stopping where it’s worth it without hunting on the map and, in the Atlas, having someone at the wheel who’s used to its bends.

On our private tours the vehicle is for your group only, and you set the stops and the pace.

Marrakech to Merzouga: all our tours

Driver next to the private tour van, with five travellers waving on a mountain road in Morocco

Arriving in Merzouga

The route ends at the foot of Erg Chebbi. From there, a camel ride at sunset is the classic, but not the only option: you can also reach the camp by 4x4 and spend the next day exploring the surroundings, with the nomad families, the Gnawa music of Khamlia and the Mfis mines.

Frequently asked questions

How long does it take to get from Marrakech to Merzouga?

It’s about 560 kilometres: 8 to 9 hours at the wheel without stopping, and 10 to 12 with stops along the way. That’s why we recommend spending a night halfway.

Where to stay between Marrakech and Merzouga?

In the Dades Valley: it’s halfway, and it leaves the Todra Gorge and the arrival at the dunes for the next day.

What films were shot in Aït Ben Haddou?

Among many others, Lawrence of Arabia, Gladiator and Game of Thrones. Close by, in Ouarzazate, are the Atlas Film Studios.

When is the Kelaat M’Gouna rose festival?

In May, with the rose harvest. The dates change every year.

Can I return to Marrakech by a different route?

Yes: through the Draa Valley, Agdz and N’kob, or via Telouet and the Ounila Valley. Our 4- and 5-day tours return via the south.